Author Topic: Darthyota's 4runner build  (Read 6718 times)

Offline TacoRunner

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #30 on: August 10, 2016, 09:02:08 AM »
Hey bud, I think you need to move the axle forward a few. Doesn't look like the coilovers will clear in the current position.
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Offline Darthyota

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #31 on: August 11, 2016, 08:52:28 PM »
clear what?

Offline TacoRunner

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #32 on: August 12, 2016, 04:28:57 PM »
The bump stops. when you articulate the suspension you will see the shock on the drop side swing in to the frame and possibly touch those bumps stops on the frame.
www.4wheelunderground.com   has all your link suspension needs. Contact us at info@4wheelunderground.com

Il Diavoli nel dettaglia  "The Devil's in the details"

Formi segue la funzione "Form follows function"

Offline Darthyota

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #33 on: August 25, 2016, 04:26:56 PM »
well this was a gooey mess



so after giving it some thought i think I'm going to upgrade the brakes while I'm at it to 1st gen tundra callipers and rotors using the front range off road tacoma/4runner brake mounting kit. this will net me much larger callipers and rotors then the traditional ifs calipers/fj60 vented rotors that most upgrade to and that i am currently running but can easily be seen by the color of the rotors that my 4runner with the current wheel and tire package needs more brake. i will be running the 13wl calipers with matching rotors. the 13wl calipers use the larger 231mm pad over the 13we which uses the smaller 199mm pads. the other big advantage to this setup is all the extra heat sink that you get from the jump in rotor size and thickness. tundra rotors are 28mm thick fj60 are 20mm thick tundra rotor dia. 320mm fj60 rotor dia. 302mm that equates to a huge difference in the amount of heat the brakes will be able to absorb. this will also make pulling axles or replacing birfields a very quick relatively mess free operation as it allows you to pull the entire wheel hub assembly without disturbing the wheel bearings.

Offline TacoRunner

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #34 on: August 28, 2016, 07:29:13 PM »
Oh yes, we know that mess well.
www.4wheelunderground.com   has all your link suspension needs. Contact us at info@4wheelunderground.com

Il Diavoli nel dettaglia  "The Devil's in the details"

Formi segue la funzione "Form follows function"

CougarHouseGarage

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #35 on: August 30, 2016, 11:42:35 AM »
lots of blue shop tows are what I like to use to clean up all the grease out of there

Offline Darthyota

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #36 on: July 26, 2018, 10:08:51 PM »
Progress ahoy!
So after some research and remembering that I had an LSD that I had originally purchased to go in my X-Runner that didn't fit in the X because it used the larger 8.4" diff and not the same "old" 8" that the FJ cruisers and 4th gen 4Runners use, I discovered that I could use it in my 8" carrier. There are however some differences between the old v6 8" and the newer FJ/4Runner 8". I discovered this difference after a couple trips to Sherwood Park Toyota for two different 8" carrier bearings, luckily I was able to find an adapter bearing. The adapter bearing has the OD of the old v6 8" carrier bearing and the ID of the newer FJ/4Runner 8" diff. Once I had the bearings I needed in hand I pressed them onto the LSD so it could be installed into the third. I had my buddy Bear help me with this as he has set up thousands of diffs. One of the things you need to make sure that you do when doing diff work is if you are removing the ring gear bolts is that you use new ones on the install as they are torque to yield and therefore only good for a single use.

The OS Giken LSD





Installed into the third.


The third installed into the housing


Some drain plug protector reinforcement. I did this as it is a common issue where a rock smashes this and makes it almost impossible to remove the drain plug.



I then set about installing the axel shafts into the housing.




Once I got the shafts in I started working on the drivers side. The first thing I had to do was to shim the new king pins ( I'm using the trail gear trunnion bearing eliminator kit) so that the steering preload is between 15 and 25 ft/lbs as measured with a fish scale. My drivers side is shimmed to 0.0645" and 0.0684" top and bottom to give a 21.9 ft/lb steering preload, I will be shimming the passenger side a little more to get closer to a 20 ft/lb preload. Once I got my steering preload set it was time to start packing the knuckle ball with grease. This is a very gooey messy step, the Toyota mini truck solid axles use approximately 2 tubes of grease per side, this includes packing the wheel bearings, packing the wheel bearing case and the locking hubs full of grease. Next comes the spindle, now normally you would just put a backing plate or a backing plate eliminator on but I plan on running much larger Lexus GX470 13WH calipers and rotors so I need to cut one set of caliper mounting ears off my 6 shooter knuckles so that I can bolt the calipers to the new mounting bracket. The other half of this requires you to use the IFS wheel bearing case as opposed to the SFA wheel bearing case as it pushes the rotor mounting surface out 1.5", the other added bonus to this setup is that you no longer need to run wheel spacers on the front to match the rear if you have a factory IFS truck.

Knuckle packed with grease


Wheel bearing case installed.



Here you can see the 13W caliper bracket and the cut off knuckle ears.


The last step is to install the locking hubs. Before I reinstalled the hubs I installed a set of chromo hub gears, one thing I noticed while installing these gears is that even when dry they tend to stick and grab preventing them from actuating smoothly like the factory hub gears I'm hoping this is something that will be eliminated with some use.

4WD locking hub installed.



Finished assembling the axle but didn't get any photos

Offline Darthyota

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Re: Darthyota's 4runner build
« Reply #37 on: July 26, 2018, 10:09:29 PM »
Been doing some body work
New











Vs. Old